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Music – Romania Without Dracula

Category: Music

  • Carolina Bonaventura, Her Tango also in Bucharest

    Carolina Bonaventura, Her Tango also in Bucharest

    Cover Photo by Pablo Scavino

    Her grandfather was a pianist and run his tango orchestra, his dad was a singer but Carolina Bonaventura discovered her passion for tango as a teenager, while studying classical ballet. These days her school Mariposita de San Telmo located in the heart of Buenos Aires, has become a landmark for tangueros and celebrates its tenth anniversary. I met this relentless Argentinian Tango ambassador on last October, when she featured as guest star at Bucharest Days, the second edition festival organised by Giorgio Panico and Mariela Roșu who in Bucharest run Scoala Urquiza according to Carolina’s Efecto Mariposita©.

     

    Carolina, can you give us an idea of what Argentinian Tango has become today?

    There is a before and after in Argentinian Tango. Until the Forties you learned tango at home: your dad, your uncle would teach it to you, your neighbours, anyone… There used to be a tango culture, those songs were your everyday musical background: the tunes broadcast on the radio, listened to in the streets, from the live orchestras in the milongas. Our lives flowed along with tango. Political events in the Fifties, Sixties and Seventies, gradually led tango to a sort of social oblivion: it became less and less fashionable, inappropriate, not elegant enough, finally the political regime discouraged social events and meetings in public places. Tango disappeared from the public scene and from Buenos Aires life, along with opportunities to meet up to dance. We reached a point when, even when people did reunite, they did not know those codes anymore and just danced rock & roll or  pop music like that of the Beatles: the scene had completely changed and for good! Even when some tango was still being played, no more than two or three pieces were played per night, while our passing on tango from generation to generation had come to a stop and youth felt like belonging to a whole different society. Then, soon after the regime collapsed, an unexpected event occurred in the Eighties, which would contribute to open up a whole different scene. After many years spent researching across the whole country, Claudio Segovia, a theatre producer,  and Héctor Orezzoli, succeeded in reuniting milongueros and tango professionals  to create a major show. Tango Argentino made its debut in Paris in 1983, soon proving a worldwide success, in fact the very event that triggered a real tango mania almost everywhere. So it was through these milongueros that tango began to be taught again in a range of different schools. By then, though, the scene had deeply changed: tango culture was no more handed down from father to son/daughter inside families and local communities, but in more formal ways through schools and academias. In the process each school started teaching according to their limited knowledge in a sort of copying-and-pasting process: the original codes went almost lost and so did a shared pedagogy and methodology.

     

    “There is a before and after in Argentinian Tango. Until the forties you learned tango at home…”

     

    The way tango is being handed down today has deeply changed: before it was “from body to body”, i.e. from generation to generation, now it is through formal tango schools and academias 

     

    And what about you, when do you reckon you got involved in tango?

    My grandfather was a pianist running his tango orchestra, my dad was a singer,  I may say that even before being born, I had been listening to tango. I started very early to study classical ballet and one day, when I was already in my teens, my teacher proposed me some tango steps. I had no special interest nor prejudices against it. So was it that when I started to listen to that music and began to move my first steps, I said to myself: “Hey, I do know this music!” I was drawn back to my childhood musical background, and it actually was for that call that I started to dance tango.

    Which is your personal approach to tango?

    For my generation it proved very hard, as we had to start almost from scrap: to begin with,  which were the basic steps of tango? A pedagogy was badly needed. For me, a key way to proceed was to disassociate movements in order to understand each single part in them. The point is that affirming that tango is connection or that you have to keep your contact to the soil is not enough: you first have to understand and then be able to explain how all this is made possible! So, my very first step was to disassociate each movement and become able to reassemble them again in a mindful and philological way. This is the kind of research at the core of Efecto Mariposita© at Mariposita de San Telmo, the tango school I opened in Buenos Aires almost ten years ago [celebrating its official 10th anniversary in April 2017, ed.] I decided to locate it in one of the oldest quarters in a hundred-year-old house which I completely renovated. That choice came after having danced almost everywhere and finally having realised that tango deserved a place all of its own. Tango is definitely part of my cultural heritage and as an artistic expression it required a place to suit its needs. To pursue my project properly, I looked after every single aspect – from the best location, to the choice of colours, materials, light inside the spaces, as I said to myself: “I want to create the best place for tango!”

     

    Buenos Aires, Mariposita de San Telmo

     

    Nowadays we are less and less body aware while more and more mind-oriented

     

    Which are the basic elements characterising Efecto Mariposita© that also Giorgio and Mirela teach in Bucharest at their Tango Urquiza?

    As we deal with a physical experience involving our bodies, my method is first of all meant to allow people to re-connect themselves with their bodies. The focus is on technic, musicality, body awareness and couple communication within the tango frame. In order to develop my method, I have had to study in depth a number of elements. For four years I have been researching with the help of an olympian athlete which and how many muscles were involved in tango dancing. Athletic training is not only necessary but essential, at the very core of tango. It’s true that anyone can dance tango but to know which muscles and body parts you need to activate and control is quite crucial too. To achieve that knowledge, I delved into biomechanics, holistic methods like Feldenkrais, Pilates and Antigymnastics,  so to help people to retrieve their correct posture, which we instinctively own at birth and lose later on, due to wrong habits like, for instance, spending too much time sitting in front of screens.  In fact, we do not draw too much attention to our physical dimension, as biased as we are by a culture that considers mind more important than the body. A first step is then to help ourselves to re-establish a contact with our physical selves: should that be missing, how could we get in touch with anyone else?  Not only: to learn our body language, we have to go through a self-awareness process. Another crucial aspect in our methodology is to develop our musicality, that is our capacity to match movement to the rhythm, melody, and mood of the music being played.

     

    Nowadays tango runs the risk of losing part of its original energy, i.e. its capacity to make very different kinds of people share the same dancing floor. That still happens in Romania

     

    Giorgio Panico and Mirela Roșu

     

    What kind of apprentices come to your school?

    It is a very heterogeneous audience: we have young, middle-age, local and foreign people coming from any corner of the world. They do all share the same passion and respect for tango. That is because while the origins of tango are quite humble, it has grown to become a universal and classical artistic form. At its very core we find communication between two human beings who look for something deeper which goes beyond the act of dancing: a form of emotional involvement, a very vision of the world. That explains why in 2009 Argentinian Tango was included in the UNESCO List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Talking about our learners, I believe that while coming from quite different backgrounds, they all share a keen interest in an approach meant to teach them the hidden mechanisms of tango, beyond any fashion or fad of the moment.

    Tango on the other side of the ocean: Europe and the rest of the world…

    We Argentinians have always been strongly connected to our European roots, our intelligentsia attracted by  France, Italy, Spain and Germany. Indeed, approval by the Old Continent has always proved a recurring element in any of our artistic fields and that has also played a major role in the process of rediscovering tango and its bringing it back to centre stage. In fact, it is not by any chance that the very debut of the show Tango Argentino by Claudio Segovia and Héctor Orezzoli – which so much contributed to the current worldwide interest in tango -,  took place in Paris.

     

    Bucharest Days Festival held on last October 2016

     

    Tango in Romania: can you perceive any specific element here?

    A first observation is that dancers here appear more passionate and responsive to the music – a trait which I also find in Russia and – generally speaking – in all of Eastern Europe, where they have a higher musical education. That is not all. Here in Romania I can also see that young and less young people still tend to mix and dance together, which alas is proving less and less true in many countries today. In most countries today you find a growing generational gap, with young dancers dancing only with young ones and old with old:  a major changeover from the original tango landscape. Dance floors have always been cross-generational with everybody in the family used to dancing with everybody else: young and old with no age barriers! These days Milongas feature more and more different-age venues: those for seventy-year old, those for third/forty-year old… In fact, nowadays tango is running the risk of losing part of its original energy, i.e. its capacity to make very different kinds of people meet to share the same dancing experience – a real pity for a dance with such a democratic DNA! In the universe of tango a twenty-year old follower may dance with an eighty-year old leader and viceversa, sharing as they do a mood and a spiritual experience. I really miss that approach: you and your tango going to the dance floor to meet whoever he/she is, as long as you both share the same codes.

    Carolina Bonaventura and Mirela Roșu, photo by Sebadochio

     

    When alone, we perfectly keep our self-centred balances but only when sharing our centres of gravity with someone else new things and new personal discoveries can happen

     

    We end up with improvisation: a key word in tango…

    Musicality, communication and improvisation are the three crucial elements which must be combined without any specific order: all of them must be there at the same time. In other types of dances like salsa, rock & roll and waltz, you have basic steps for the leader and the follower to go along but in tango there does not exist any basic step nor beat to start with and your movements are built together from the very beginning: and with the music, there comes improvisation. This makes communication and capacity to react key elements. In fact, to improvise you need to know the technique, i.e. how to keep your balance so to be able to shift your centre of gravity at the right time. We may say that Tango is built through basic bricks which you have to know how to combine as you better like. The total freedom you are allowed in tango is proved by the fact that you can dance the very same piece with the same partner without ever producing the very same steps. More, at the centre of it all you find two dancers with all their potential expressiveness and that is immensely challenging. In fact, when alone, we perfectly keep our self-centred balances but it is only when we share our centres of gravity with someone else that new things and new personal discoveries can happen. That is why tango is like life itself, that is why I insist on stressing the deep humanity of tango.

     

  • Limpede

    Limpede

    Omu Gnom,   Limpede (In a Clear Mind)

    We are the descendants of a holy People from this land

    From a culture that you would not discover too soon

    Whith glowing lies they want to replace your past

    But in vain you wear thick clothing if you are empty inside

    An easy confusion like faded music of old times

    Each of them should be dismissed like Russos

    Like debris carried away

    From a building site for good

    And to the government we apply a reshuffled code of good things

    It’s about a supreme awakening, a soul with love and peace

    Not with a gun under your pillow

    So that want us to be slaves in our land, that’s clear

    But in the end everything returns to where it all began

    Yes, just like Magellan

    The present bring us the past for the future

    Romania is like a human being, to know himself he needs to look inside his soul

    They forged our history with great abjection

    And of course it is just shit if they are made up

    I want to bring you a little sunshine,

    I don’t want to lie to you now because I will be force to lie to you all the time

    Research, study, represent yourself

    In these cloudy times we need clear thinking

    Here we have a high-level family business

    with orders coming from Mother Russia and Uncle Sam

    we witness a world parada

    where money/ice disappears due to global warming

    It is a treasure hunt and you are caught-in without knowing how

    And I can tell you when there is cheese even sandwiches are better

    Yes, as stingy as you may be, don’t venerate money too much

    Because of that you may risk to be left like Bugs Bunny with a carrot in your mouth

    There are also other important values ​​to pursue

    and don’t be stupid just because that is the easiest way to learn

    Each of us is endowed with infinite powers

    Yes, you know this is a paradoxical time

    when it is difficult to be simple

    I studied I am informed and prepared for the cause

    It’s amazing how much you can find if you know what to search for

    Really, stay tuned as we represent resistance in our country and national self-confidence grows

    Translated by Lucia Massacesi

     

     

    Original Lyrics:

    Suntem urmasii unui popor sfant de pe acest pamant

    Al unei culturi pe care vor sa n-o descoperi prea curand

    Cu minciuni stralucitoare vor sa-ti inlocuiasca trecutul

    Dar degeaba te imbraci gros daca esti gol pe dinauntru

    Confuzie usoara ca muzica de odinioara, apusa

    Ar trebui fiecare dintre ei sa fie demis ca Rusos

    Si-asa cara moloz

    Sa-i ducem pe bune pe santier

    Si guvernului sa-i aplicam codului bunelor remanieri

    E vorba despre trezirea suprema, cu dragoste-n suflet si pace

    Nu cu pistolul sub perna

    Ca ne vor sclavi pe pamantul nostru asta e clar

    Insa la final totul se intoarce de unde a plecat

    Da’ altfel ca Magelan

    Prezentul ne readuce trecutul pentru viitor

    Romania e ca un om sa se cunoasca tre’ sa priveasca in interior

    Ne-au falsificat istoria cu mizerie multa

    Si logic ca sunt doar c******i daca ei le scot din burta

    Vreau sa-ti aduc putin soare,

    Nu vreau sa te mint ca voi fi fortat sa te mint in continuare

    Cerceteaza, studiaza, reprezinta-te

    In aceste vremuri tulburi tre sa gandim limpede

    Aici e o afacere de familie de rang inalt

    cu ordine de la mama rusie si unchiul sam

    suntem martorii unei parade mondiale

    unde banii gheata dispar din cauza incalzirii globale

    e o vanatoare de hartii si esti prins fara sa stii cum

    si recunosc cand ai cascaval, si sandvich-u-i mai bun

    da oricat de avar ai fi nu venera mereu banii

    ca risti pt ei sa stai cu morcovu in gura ca bugs bunny

    sunt si alte valori mai importante de urmat

    si nu fi prost doar pt ca-i drumul cel mai usor de invatat

    fiecare dintre noi e inzestrat cu infinite puteri

    da stii tu e paradoxal timpu

    si e complicat sa fie simplu

    am studiat sunt informat pregatit pt cauza

    e uimitor cate poti sa gasesti daca stii ce cauti

    zau, mereu la curent ramai panou cand in tara

    reprezentam rezistenta cand sare siguranta nationala

  • Mum, come and see… Kids Singing Green

    Mum, come and see… Kids Singing Green

    While Romania needs to hurry up to cross the 2020 finish line with all its EU waste targets met, the situation on the ground becomes more and more unsustainable. At its core we find a cultural challenge which needs tackling by any possible means. Irony and direct involvement may prove amazing tools, as Amazing Romania! seems to suggest. It is a video produced by Mike Ormsby and Angela Nicoara who chose to deal with the Romanian green issue in a very creative way.  In his RWD interview Mike Ormsby has revealed us the origin and the funny details behind the video shot in Magura and starring very special (and crucial) actors. 

    Enjoy the video and, above all, share it!

    Excerpt from RWD interview to Mike Ormsby:

    “Angela and I decided to make the video after a villager yelled an ironic comment while we were picking litter. Before I tell you what that person yelled, a little context might help, as follows.

    Despite our many invitations to them, no local adults help us to collect litter in Magura. Instead, they offer excuses, e.g. I’m too busy. Some parents even tried to forbid their kids from helping us to tidy up because they think it’s undignified, dirty, and ‘not our problem’, even though many of them own guest houses and thus benefit from a cleaner village for tourists to enjoy. Naturally, we are disappointed, especially as our work takes only a couple of hours every month or so. Anyway, moving on …

    We were with local kids collecting litter from a mountain lane, when a local yelled, “Hah! Vino Mama, sa ma vezi cum lucrez la spatii verzi!” Angela told me that this was a sarcastic reference to a communist-era work slogan: “Mum, come and see, I’m working in the green spaces!”

    We’d been thinking for a while about making a music video with some of the village kids who attend my ukulele class, but we had not chosen a song from our repertoire. So, we decided to use that communist-era slogan for a new song about collecting litter, a song urging local parents to help us. We were sitting in a pizza place at the time and we heard ‘Every Breath You Take’ in the background. We realised we could adapt Sting’s nice tune but add our own lyrics about litter in Magura. Angela found an experienced cameraman to help shoot and edit the film, and a neighbour choreographed traditional dance steps for the kids. We added a comic touch – dancing with bags full of rubbish – and paid homage to Bob Dylan with our flash cards listing the sorts of things we find in the village. You name it, we find it!

    The video shoot took several days and was very hard work in hot weather. It can be tricky coordinating a dozen kids, for shot after shot, but they were very cooperative. When they got tired, we told them, “This is how it feels to be a movie star, it’s a lot of work!” That made them feel a bit famous and they’d brighten up.

    So far, our video has had around 30,000 hits on the Internet and dozens of supportive comments. Lucian Mandruta from DigiFM posted it on his Facebook page, which helped. If you wish to watch, here is the link: ‘Amazing Romania!’ Please share, every thumb helps. But will local adults? We’ll see.”

     

     

     

     

     

  • Never Mind the Balkans, Here’s Romania

    Never Mind the Balkans, Here’s Romania

    Mike Ormsby, Never Mind the Balkans, Here’s Romania 
    Kindle Edition, 2, 211 pages
    Published June 28th 2012 by Mike Ormsby (first published January 1st 2008)

    Admittedly, it has taken me some time to discover Never Mind the Balkans, Here’s Romania, first published in 2008, yet here I am now, eager to fill that awkward gap.

    In this collection of fifty-seven short stories, Mike Ormsby, a writer and former BBC journalist/World Service trainer, chronicles various moments of his experiences in Romania between 1994 and 2006, when Romania became his home.

    Published simultaneously in Romanian as Grand Bazar Romania (translated by Vlad A. Arghir), Ormsby’s book received a range of reactions – from sheer enthusiasm to harsh criticism – mostly depending on readers’ personal visions, expectations, and sometimes, on their nationality.

    Personally, I could not help getting absorbed in tales that so vividly evoke situations and characters almost identical to those I have come across, eight years later.

    Irony – and, even more valuable, self-deprecating irony – seems to me the X-factor which makes you enjoy reading this book, to the point that some local critics have dubbed Ormsby ‘our British Caragiale’, after the 19th century playwright and satirist. Alas, I wish I knew more about Caragiale – just another one of the huge gaps I still need to fill – to fully appreciate that comment, surely enough, though, the author’s funny and bittersweet tone works as an antidote to his keen empathy with Romanians and their unique land, providing him with a safe distance from which to observe the scene.

    Indeed, Never Mind the Balkans is not the only book about contemporary Romania under “modern foreign eyes”, so to say, and I will be dealing with at least a couple of others soon enough: Philip O’Ceallaigh’s Notes From a Turkish Whorehouse  (Insemnari dintr-un bordel turcesc, translated by Ana-Maria Lisman), and Voyage en Roumanie by Alain Kerjean; each contribute in their own way to unveil some of the deep mechanisms at work inside contemporary Romanian society.

    Back to Ormsby’s book, it strikes me for having succeeded in assembling such a vivid gallery of characters, so powerfully close to the “real thing”: you cannot but feel grateful for that. In each story, the author blends into his surrounding and allows characters to speak for themselves. His voice is never invasive nor in the least sounding like the usual “wise guy from the West”. Rather, quite often he limits himself to acting as litmus paper within his environment, letting people and situations speak for themselves. Like in Why Not, where his artistic projects with his friend Adrian finally cannot but crash when faced with the dumb indifference of an incompetent journalist, whereas in Nice Sofa, Ormsby lucidly stops aside to actually wonder, “Was it my fault? Was I some wise guy from the West, with big ideas?” So, as I went on reading – always with valuable help from my Urban Dictionary – I enjoyed descriptions conjuring up, in a bunch of words, whole human landscapes and situations.

    More. Many tales leave you with a surreal aftertaste, not an infrequent impression in Romania. Take Labyrinth, where characters successfully incarnate one mainstream approach to life here: “Live by the rules and don’t get stressed.” Others – with generous help from serendipity – focus on the past or dig into local history to finally present you with little treasures, like Buried, where, en passant, Mihai Eminescu is described as that chap “with the rock-star looks”. The tale sheds light on the little known, tragic biography of a promising young translator, Corneliu Popescu, whom Ormsby discovers by chance while searching in the public library for English translations of Romanian authors. As a teenager, Popescu translated Eminescu, and brilliantly so, but died alongside his mother in the 1977 earthquake.

    Another kind of sadness takes you when reading tales like Șpaga, depicting the use of bribes as the mainstream strategy to solve any practical problem or life issue, applicable at every possible social level.

    The good thing about these tales is that they are not Bucharest-centred: Ormsby travels the whole country and encounters very different human habitats. In The Wrong Place, we end up in a small village, Tușnad, with poor Tanti Dorina who is caught in her damp bed between past and future, whereas in Too Good To Be True, a hiking trip takes us up into the Carpathian Mountains, dangerously close to angry sheepdogs. But it is definitely in tales like Faith, Hope, and Chablis that I most appreciate Ormsby’s voice. Here, two worlds – West and East Europe (allow me to generalise) appear to get extremely close one another, yet something goes wrong and it does smack of us-and-them – indeed a chasm – unless prejudice and self assurance are not won by good will and a sincere wish to understand “the other”. I won’t say more, because I do invite you to pick up this book and enjoy your reading.

    Overall, I am grateful to Ormsby and will steal a quote from John Lennon, one which the author passes on to his friend George, a character we meet in several tales: “Life is what happens while you are making other plans.”

  • My Take – Wake Up, Romanian!

    My Take – Wake Up, Romanian!

    December 1st is Romanian National Day, you can tell that from details like the sudden sprouting of flags proudly attached on each side of car windows,  the smaller the car, the more likely the presence of flags.

    General Elections Are in the Air

    Yesterday morning the military parade – after three days of rehearsals and extra traffic due to detours – was arranged along Șoseaua Kiseleff, with the renovated Arcul de Triumf the heart location of the event. Apparently Ms Gabriela Firea (PSD), the recently elected Bucharest mayor, has succeeded in completing just in time the consolidation works of the Arc which have been keeping the monument invisible for the last four years. General Elections are due on December 11th and this appointment cannot but be seen also as a preparatory show off. More, due to the latest developments of the world politics, the annual military parade has proved an excellent opportunity to underline the strong links that Romania entertains both with the European Union and Nato.

    Soulful Notes

    As I walked to reach the venue, I was impressed by the level of participation in the event: families, children, older people, youngsters of all types – from hipsters to students, to manual workers – women from every kind of social and cultural background, and eccentrics, of course. While people with their flags still rolled up kept on flocking out from the Aviatorilor metro station, others had parked somewhere around and were converging from all other possible directions. In a corner of piata Charles De Gaulle  a street musician was tuning the Romanian national anthem on his fiddle, children watching while their parents strutted them onward. In fact, those few soulful notes touched me deeply and stroke a cord of deep respect for this mysterious country.

    The Call of the Past

    When I reached Kiseleff at least five rows of spectators were already covering the street view, I wonder how much earlier they had to get there and, above all, how much colder it must have been then, considering that it was still rather chilly at ten something. Back in Italy, patriotic parades are much less successful, football championships maybe… Here it must have something to do with their communist past and the emphasis on public parades. When the never-ending  parade began – also an Italian military presence was featured! – Romanians did their best to catch as much as they could, by any possible means. The moment air-fighters rocketed over our heads I could not help feeling overwhelmed by personal memories – my dad was an F104 aviator in his days – and so it was that the Romanian National Day was also my day.

    La Multi Ani, Romania!

    • Heading to the parade at Arcul de Triumf
    • The National Anthem “Deșteaptă-te, române!” played on the street

     

  • My Take – Walking Down Bucharest Parallel Worlds

    My Take – Walking Down Bucharest Parallel Worlds

    20160711-dsc_0333
    Piata Revolutiei July 2016, Installation by Sever Petrovici-Popescu


    “Imi place foarte mult sa ma plimb prin Bucuresti, am avut o perioada in care am mers foarte mult pe jos si mi-am dat seama ca Bucurestiul are o arhitectura extraordinara ce trebuie pusa in evidenta. Sunt o gramada de zone faine, mai ales in zonele dintre cartiere si centru.”

    Omu Gnom

    If you believe in the power of serendipity Bucharest is the place to be: here the music of chance may easily lead you to discover something intriguing just round the corner. If you can afford to invest some of your time in random walks, then just go for it. At times you may even experience shy forms of travel in time.

    Adding up to your playlist

    When on a stroll down Bucharest streets, once you have skipped the challenging gaps and holes of most of its sidewalks, watch around for clues. Say, you walk along Boulevard Dacia, your eye catches the sign of a small museum which, like a Theatre in Magheru, is dedicated to a Nottara: no time to pop in? Just take a note to look it up later and you will have added a charming piece to your  Romanian music playlist: Siciliana, composed by Constantin C., actor Constantin I. Nottara’s son.  If you head centre you may then stop to observe the elegant peacefulness emanating from the historic villas surrounding park Ioanid – these days mostly turned into diplomatic residences; you muse on all the secrets those windows and gardens have been guarding since their first appearance on the city map.

    Contemplating new forms of barbarism

    You decide to turn into a smaller lateral street – it never really matters which – and walk past the remains of a rusted iron fence containing a garden grown wild around an old villa on the verge of vanishing. Most of these fading buildings belong to a sophisticated and – curiously enough, for quite many Romanians today – to a nostalgic past. With a good help of your imagination – here comes the travel in time – you catch a glance of what, several decades back, must have been an aristocratic residence with its framed windows, its richly decorated iron bars, its glass-paneled winter garden… At their latest, these villas date back to the so called interbelic period. Shortly after WWII the new communist lords methodically destroyed as much as possible of all the past elites’ symbols: from impalpable aspects such as their social status and lifestyle down to their homes and very material existence, in an attempt at wiping them out of the urban landscape. Yet history repeat itself. Not ideology, rather a  get-rich-quick mentality nowadays threatens to wipe out what survives of the architectural heritage. Critics say a significant number of these historic buildings could be strengthened, rejuvenated and saved – but that the owners prefer to leave them empty, waiting until it is necessary to tear them down for safety reasons and then, in their place, building a modern high-rise. Over the last decade the historic centre of Lipscani has undergone a massive renovation effort which not always has preserved all the charme of the original places.

    New tenants for old buildings

    As you walk down less central areas you are more likely to discover other interesting buildings. Hidden behind wooden boards and remains of deftly wrought iron fences, they seem almost claimed back by chaos. Yet, to a closer look, quite often these houses in complete shambles are not neglected at all and have rather ended up hosting  a whole new set of tenants. They often happen to be Roma families that, having no other place to go, have installed themselves there, until local authorities, on behalf of legitimate owners who have finally regained their property rights after decades of legal fights, kick them out. Paradoxically enough, such a phenomenon did not exist in Ceausescu’s days. Back then the Roma community was integrated – though forcibly – in the Romanian society, both by being assigned a regular job and housing in the very same blocs along with all other Romanian citizens. After the collapse of the regime, that fragile social balance broke down for good, with democratically elected governments regularly failing at envisaging any kind of social inclusion policy, triggering – instead – new waves of racial discrimination toward the Roma citizens. Now back to the street. You can tell the Romas’ presence from the colourful mess of clothes hanging out to dry in the sun along makeshift laundry wires, or from the vibrant frames perceived through the palisades: dirty toddlers watching older peers’ skilful ballgames, cute girls laughing on thresholds, older women in their chenille bathrobes sweeping dusty courtyards – a minor rite which assimilates them to gadji housewives, reminding us that true, whole world is country. Most times, should you pass by over weekends, the scene would be enriched with manele tunes magically rising up from nowhere, electricity being somehow provided for in a place where regular utility bills stopped being mailed ages ago.

    Bucharest live show

    Leaving behind this layer of urban life, you recover your adventurous walk along a typical street with clusters of wild car-parking: no sidewalks for you, the only option being to keep going along  the carriage way beside high-speed cars (the bigger, the speedier). Few more strides ahead and in front of an unexpected  art noveau building you run into a TV crew arranging its equipment for an interview to someone hot expected to emerge any minute from his/her lawyer, as the elegant brass plaque suggests. Citizens must be informed: be it a football player signing a new contract, a vedeta divorcing from his third husband, a politician just charged with plagiarism of his university degree or, more simply, for yet another bribe scandal. As you observe the calm professionalism of the young TV crew operating amid the traffic, the notion that the world is a stage here appears reinforced  with the idea of a dangerous stage.

    Eternity Street

    Surprises are in store even when walking along more peripheral quarters like Colentina or Pantelimon. There, on each side you are surmounted by gigantic ten-storey residential buildings Romanians call bloc. You stroll far away from picturesque neighbourhoods still you never give up and continue your quest for useful clues to understand more of this big city. They could be found in the icons worshipped in candle lit silence inside an orthodox church squeezed amid the blocs and the traffic, or amid the surreal silence circulating amid the tombstones of those resting in peace in cemeteries surrounded by beehive bloc. Take the almost abstract address of cimitir Progresul 2: Strada Eternitatii, Eternity Street. Definitely yet another layer of this big city.

    Me and the rapper

    I stop walking and head home. Serendipity does not stop operating its charms though. Checking out facts and information, I find out that Omu Gnom, a young underground rapper born and raised in the Drumul Taberei quarter – not suspected of indulging in the picturesque like a middle-aged Italian expat – also finds walking down Bucharest streets a unique experience. That is easily explained because all parallel worlds pass through Bucharest, somehow.

     

     

    • Bucharest, serendipity on sale in strada Academiei
    • Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta, pop art on the go
    • Bucharest is a mine of architectural styles, at times with an edge
    • A balcony for two
    • Bulevardul Protopopescu, how many stories buried inside there?
    • Chaos prevailing
    • Bucharest, corner of strada Academiei, Modernist building
    • Glass is a recurrent and often invasive element in new buildings
    • Architectural clashes reflected
    • Piata Iancului backyard, Typical ten-storey bloc
    • Colentina area, Cimiterul Reinvierea, the dead resting amid the blocs

     

     

     

     

  • Planner – Transylvanian Brunch!

    They search for old, forgotten recepies and cook them with the local communities, neighbourhoods or families in the villages. Therefore they use only local and seasonal products, making you experience the local culture during a hike and a tour of the village.

    The private events which they offer are organized on demand, in the Hartibaciu & Tarnava region, between May and the middle of October. The prices and the minimum of participants are in the table below.

    Transilvanian Brunch EUR 25,- / Pers., Min. 30 – Max. 200 Pers.
    Picnic in Cindrel EUR 25,- / Pers., Min. 40 – Max. 200 Pers.
    Flavours and sounds of Transylvania EUR 25,- / Pers., Min. 30 – Max. 80 Pers.
    Electric camping EUR 35,- / Pers., Min. 50 – Max. 100 Pers.
    Cina in natura EUR 50,- / Pers., Min. 40 – Max. 80 Pers.

    Check below the 2016 Agenda

    AgendaTG_2016

     

    Transilvanian Brunch

    Find out more about Transylvania

    Rechi Nashul

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